Fashion Industry Clears Its Calendar, Looks to Other Changes
2020-06-22
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1From Armani to Gucci, top fashion houses are slowing the rate at which they hold fashion shows and launch new lines of clothing.
2The move comes as the coronavirus health crisis forces the fashion industry to re-think the way it operates.
3High-end designers are reducing the number of collections they show at fashion weeks throughout the year in London, Paris, Milan, and New York City.
4It has been more than two months since health officials around the world announced stay-at-home orders to limit the spread of the coronavirus.
5Since then, many stores have been closed, and fashion houses have suspended work at factories that manufacture their products.
6Bain & Company, a business advisory service, estimates the $310 billion luxury goods industry will report a drop in sales this year of up to 35 percent.
7Fashion houses are struggling with lots of unsold products.
8And the possibility of price cuts on high-end goods could damage their public image as well as harm profits.
9Designer Michael Kors was the latest to call for a post-virus slowdown in the fashion calendar.
10His business pulled out of New York's fashion shows in September.
11Kors said he would only make two collections a year - one for spring and summer, and one for autumn and winter.
12This means no longer producing "resort and pre-fall" collections.
13These collections offer holiday wear for foreign travel.
14They have added to the number of designers' creations that critics say do not meet people's needs, especially in a recession.
15Robert Burke is founder of Robert Burke Associates, a service that advises luxury sales businesses.
16He told the Reuters news agency the move towards fewer collections is linked to the public's move away from disposable fashion.
17The debate about the nature of the fashion industry pre-dates the coronavirus.
18But it has been given a sense of urgency by the health crisis, which is pressuring companies to cut costs and sell products without losing too much money.
19Kors said shipments of his products would from now on arrive in stores slowly over the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons.
20This more closely represents "how customers actually live and shop," representatives of his company said.
21Armani, in an open letter to fashion industry publication WWD, said luxury businesses should stop following fast fashion delivery calendars.
22"It makes no sense for one of my jackets or suits to live in the shop for three weeks before becoming ... replaced by new goods that are not too different," he wrote.
23Alessandro Michele, who made Gucci highly profitable for French owner Kering, has said he would cut the company's yearly shows from five to two.
24And in its end-May earnings presentation, Ralph Lauren said it was working on less seasonal products, and more clothing that has all-around use.
25Lauren's chief financial officer Jane Nielsen said the summer collection would stay in stores through August.
26Companies like Gucci and LVMH's Dior have used more frequent collections and costly events in untraditional places to appeal to wealthy buyers, especially in China.
27With luxury spending hit by the crisis, some industry insiders say it no longer makes sense to have a huge advertising budget.
28A fashion show can cost well over $1 million.
29The move towards showing and producing less also is evidence of a changing relationship between fashion companies and big department stores in the United States.
30The stores' owners long controlled the timing of product releases to keep their products looking fresh.
31Ron Frasch, former president of Saks Fifth Avenue, said the health crisis has sped up the collapse of Neiman Marcus and other top U.S. stores.
32The old method of doing business is now increasingly being called into question, he noted.
33Yet some fashion designers are resisting the call for a lighter fashion calendar.
34Chanel, which in a show of strength increased prices in May, said it would still release six collections a year.
35I'm Pete Musto.
1From Armani to Gucci, top fashion houses are slowing the rate at which they hold fashion shows and launch new lines of clothing. 2The move comes as the coronavirus health crisis forces the fashion industry to re-think the way it operates. 3High-end designers are reducing the number of collections they show at fashion weeks throughout the year in London, Paris, Milan, and New York City. 4It has been more than two months since health officials around the world announced stay-at-home orders to limit the spread of the coronavirus. Since then, many stores have been closed, and fashion houses have suspended work at factories that manufacture their products. Bain & Company, a business advisory service, estimates the $310 billion luxury goods industry will report a drop in sales this year of up to 35 percent. 5Fashion houses are struggling with lots of unsold products. And the possibility of price cuts on high-end goods could damage their public image as well as harm profits. 6Designer Michael Kors was the latest to call for a post-virus slowdown in the fashion calendar. His business pulled out of New York's fashion shows in September. 7Kors said he would only make two collections a year - one for spring and summer, and one for autumn and winter. This means no longer producing "resort and pre-fall" collections. These collections offer holiday wear for foreign travel. They have added to the number of designers' creations that critics say do not meet people's needs, especially in a recession. 8Robert Burke is founder of Robert Burke Associates, a service that advises luxury sales businesses. He told the Reuters news agency the move towards fewer collections is linked to the public's move away from disposable fashion. 9The debate about the nature of the fashion industry pre-dates the coronavirus. But it has been given a sense of urgency by the health crisis, which is pressuring companies to cut costs and sell products without losing too much money. 10Kors said shipments of his products would from now on arrive in stores slowly over the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons. This more closely represents "how customers actually live and shop," representatives of his company said. 11Armani, in an open letter to fashion industry publication WWD, said luxury businesses should stop following fast fashion delivery calendars. 12"It makes no sense for one of my jackets or suits to live in the shop for three weeks before becoming ... replaced by new goods that are not too different," he wrote. 13Alessandro Michele, who made Gucci highly profitable for French owner Kering, has said he would cut the company's yearly shows from five to two. 14And in its end-May earnings presentation, Ralph Lauren said it was working on less seasonal products, and more clothing that has all-around use. Lauren's chief financial officer Jane Nielsen said the summer collection would stay in stores through August. 15Companies like Gucci and LVMH's Dior have used more frequent collections and costly events in untraditional places to appeal to wealthy buyers, especially in China. 16With luxury spending hit by the crisis, some industry insiders say it no longer makes sense to have a huge advertising budget. A fashion show can cost well over $1 million. 17The move towards showing and producing less also is evidence of a changing relationship between fashion companies and big department stores in the United States. The stores' owners long controlled the timing of product releases to keep their products looking fresh. 18Ron Frasch, former president of Saks Fifth Avenue, said the health crisis has sped up the collapse of Neiman Marcus and other top U.S. stores. The old method of doing business is now increasingly being called into question, he noted. 19Yet some fashion designers are resisting the call for a lighter fashion calendar. Chanel, which in a show of strength increased prices in May, said it would still release six collections a year. 20I'm Pete Musto. 21Silvia Aloisi and Melissa Fares reported on this story for the Reuters news agency. Pete Musto adapted it for VOA Learning English. George Grow was the editor. 22We want to hear from you. Write to us in the Comments Section. 23_______________________________________________________________ 24Words in This Story 25fashion - n. the business of creating and selling clothes in new styles 26line(s) - n. a group of related products that are sold by one company 27luxury goods - n. something that is expensive and not necessary 28post- - pref. after or later than 29calendar - n. a list or schedule of events or activities that occur at different times throughout the year 30disposable - adj. made to be used once or only a few times 31shop - v. to visit places where goods are sold in order to look at and buy things 32delivery - n. the act of taking something to a person or place 33frequent - adj. happening often 34department store(s) - n. a large store that has separate areas in which different kinds of products are sold